In Pursuit of Vintage Jewelry

Although the price of vintage jewelry can vary from inexpensive to jaw-dropping, the collection of these pieces can prove to be interesting, satisfying and fun. It’s also definitely exciting, learning the history in each figural piece.

But first let’s examine the most frequently asked question: When is jewelry considered vintage? Vintage is usually used to describe high quality objects of a past time. Jewelry collectors and experts categorize jewelry items that are fifty to one hundred years old as vintage. Jewelry pieces that are older than one hundred years are considered antique. However, current trends have been labeling as vintage even jewelry that’s over a hundred years old. The bottom line is, for a jewelry piece to be called vintage, it should at least be fifty years old and still in prime condition.

Common Vintage Composition

Jewelry pieces made of rhinestones are among the most common vintage jewelry items. A rhinestone is an imitation of diamond and commonly made from rock crystals, glass, acrylic, or plastic. These vintage rhinestones are in varying vibrant colors, cuts, shapes and finishes, and are inlaid in different types of metals. They were primarily produced in Japan, West Germany, Austria and Czechoslovakia.

Other vintage pieces are made of diamonds, rubies, emeralds, amethysts, and other precious stones. But even jewelry pieces made from glass beads, wooden beads, ceramic and porcelain can be called vintage if it fits the age requirement.

Jewelry Eras

A collector of vintage jewelry must know the different eras that a piece of jewelry could possibly come from. Along with knowing the authenticity and the history of each piece of jewelry, the age of the jewelry is very important in determining its value. The characteristics of jewelry pieces of each era will also warn you against faux-vintage pieces.

Georgian Era

The earliest era for vintage jewelry is the Georgian Era. It encompasses the years between 1714 and 1837. The Georgian Era is a period in British history that began with the ascent of George I to the English throne and lasted until the end of William IV’s reign.

One of the defining qualities of jewelry from this era is that it is all hand-made. The designs are often inspired by nature. Designs usually include leaves, birds, plumage, wheat and flowers. They reflect the Rococo style of architecture and interior design. The jewelry items from this era are mostly made from diamonds and are very rare now. Each piece is very valuable now because of the rarity of this beautiful jewelry.

Victorian Era

Victorian Era (1837 – 1900) jewelry pieces are further sub-grouped into three periods. Jewelry pieces that are made between 1837 and 1850 belong to the Romantic period. Though jewelry items from this period are still inspired by nature designs, there is more emphasis on flowers this time.

The designs of the gems are intricately and painstakingly crafted into yellow gold. During the day, lockets and brooches were a familiar sight, while at night colored gemstones and diamonds were worn. Delicate filigrees made with twisted threads of gold and silver were also very popular during this era.

The mid-Victorian era (1860-1880) saw the emergence of the “Grand Jewelry”. The period began with pieces that have solemn and grave designs due to the death of Queen Victoria’s husband. Mourning jewelry was heavy and made of dark stones such as jet, onyx, amethyst, and garnet. However, since the English trade with other countries such as China and India had peaked, more colorful designs were also born. Shells and mosaic designs became popular along with colorful gemstones.

The “Aesthetic Jewelry” came from the late Victorian period (1885-1900). Diamonds and bright gemstones such as sapphire, peridot, and spinel were frequently used by jewelers. Stars, crescent designs, and miniature figures of creatures such as dragons wrapped around a pearl became very popular. Jewelry was often in the form of elaborate hat pins during this era.

Arts and Crafts Movement

During the last years of the nineteenth century, there was a British aesthetic movement called the Arts and Crafts movement. It flourished until the early years of the twentieth century. Craftsmen from this period took pride in personal handiwork. Most of the jewelry pieces during this period were handmade and have intricate designs. But the patterns were simple and the jewelry pieces were made of colorful stones that were uncut.

While the Arts and Crafts movement in Britain was in full force, the Art Nouveau period was developing elsewhere, and there was also growing interest in mysticism. Jewelry crafters therefore frequently used moonstones and opals.

Aside from natural designs such as exotic flowers and butterflies, whimsical creatures of fancy also became a trend. Among the most popular “creatures” in jewelry designs were dragonflies, a female form set in the midst of a garden, and other natural sinuous forms. New materials were also used for Art Nouveau jewelry pieces. These include tortoise shells, baroque pearls, ivory and copper. Basic techniques in enameling like cloisonne and basse-taille were used in the production of jewelry.

Edwardian Era

In 1901, Queen Victoria of England died, and her son Edward VII succeeded her. The Edwardian period (1901-1910) of jewelry design boasts superior craftsmanship and metalwork of white gold or platinum. Other expensive gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies inlaid with elaborate designs were also very popular.

There was also great advancement in stonecutting, making it possible for a multitude of more minute diamonds to be included in a single piece of jewelry. The Edwardian era saw the rise of a style of pendant called “the Negligee.” It features two separate pendants of different lengths that are suspended from a single chain or gem. The settings for jewelry also differ during this period. Platinum is a very strong and versatile metal so invisible platinum settings or “milgrained settings” became extremely popular. A milgrained-set piece is made of thin bands of platinum holding tiny gems and metalwork and creating the illusion of handmade lace.

The Art Deco Period

Jewelry items made between 1920 and 1935 belong to the Art Deco period. Jewelry pieces in this period were made of bright colors, sharp lines and geometric styles. These were inspired by African, Japanese, and Egyptian artistic designs.

The jewelries used by flappers of the Jazz age reflect Art Deco principles of decadence, liberation and style. Among the most popular pieces are chokers made from amber and murano beads. During this period, bakelite, celluloid, doublets, and enamels were used as material for jewelries. Another signature Art Deco jewelry item is bracelets worn many at a time and long necklaces.

Art Retro Period

The most recent period of vintage jewelries is the Art Retro period which began in the 1930s and went on until the 1950s. Drawing its inspiration from Hollywood glamour, jewelry items in this period were colorful, bold and elaborate. Large cocktail rings, charm bracelets and large necklaces, watches and bracelets became a trend. Colored stones, pink gold and ribbons and bows décor were incorporated into jewelry designs and styles.

A Form of Investment

In ancient times, jewelry was used for such basic purposes as clasping clothes together and wealth storage. Jewelry is the oldest form of body adornment, and it’s never gone out of style, even though the particular styles are constantly evolving.

The new millennium saw the re-emergence of jewelry that was worn or made many years ago. Vintage jewelry is suddenly in demand everywhere and stores selling this kind of jewelry pieces are ubiquitous. Vintage jewelry is now a hot fashion trend.

The clothes in the recent collections of runway designers have featured several vintage jewelry pieces, helping to popularize this fashion trend, but vintage jewelry is also a solid form of investment, as vintage jewelry doesn’t depreciate. Whether you’re looking to make a sound investment or you simply want a beautiful, unique piece of jewelry to wear, vintage can be rewarding and fun.

Other articles of interest:

• Evoking Good Times With Vintage Jewelry
• Irish Engagement Rings