Before the Middle Ages, diamonds were largely enjoyed as nature formed them, in an octahedral (or to the common folk, an octagon type) shape. If there was any modification, it was simply in the form of polishing. Most consumers today would not be wowed by an ancient diamond cut. In fact, many consumers would pass over these stones, thinking them not worth the notice. However, during the Middle Ages, diamond faceting, or cutting, began to become an art form all its own.During this time, the first diamond cut came about, largely as the result of polishing. This cut, termed the Point Cut, was a simple refinement of a diamond’s natural octahedral shape. These had 8 sides and resulted in somewhat improved brilliance. This form is not found today, because it is largely unusable in modern jewelry and because diamonds can have much more beauty with other cuts.
The second cut to come about was a slight modification of the Point Cut and is called the Table Cut. In this, the top of the octahedron is sawn off, leaving a large, flat expanse on the top of the stone. A culet would sometimes be included to protect the stone from the damaging effects of cleavage. Cleavage in a diamond runs parallel to the octahedral facets, so if it occurred, the stone would likely split in two. The table cut provided even more beauty and fire, enjoying prominence through the 15th century.
It is interesting to note that during this era, diamonds were not prized for their luster or sparkle, but for their hardness. Many diamonds are depicted as black in paintings of this time and that is a fairly accurate representation of them during this era.
Briolette and rosette cuts came about during the next few hundred years, providing absolute symmetry of form. Rosette cut diamonds may have been influenced by Indian diamonds, though Western jewelers were able to take the cut to the limits of its possibilities because diamonds are sacred in Indian mythology, therefore the stone was cut as little as possible to retain its supernatural powers.
The 17th century saw the first brilliant cuts and the rise of diamonds that modern consumers would recognize in a display case. These cuts, known as Mazarin Cuts, had 17 facets on the top of the stone. The term “double cuts” came about because they dramatically improved on the briolette and rosette styles of diamond cutting. The Peruzzi cut came about a little later, raising the number of facets from 17 to 33. The Old European Cut was the next to develop; bringing diamonds a little closer to what we know today.
The Round Brilliant Cut was developed around 1900 and was due in large part to better quality jewelry equipment and diamond saws. This cut brought still more scintillation from these stones and continues to be enormously popular to this day. There are many modifications on the round brilliant style of cutting, including mixed cuts. These cuts combine elements of the Round Brilliant Cut and step cutting styles common to gems like emeralds.
Cut Names at the Jewelers
When you walk into a jewelry store, chances are they’re not going to mention many of these names. You’ll hear Princess Cut, Cushion Cut, Oval, Marquise and others. Do not be confused. These names apply to the shape of the stone, not the overall cut. The cut itself is what brings out the inner fire of a diamond, while the shape gives the stone a unique outward appearance. There are many popular styles of diamond shapes on the market, though the Princess style is enduringly popular and is what many people think of when they hear the world “diamond.”
When choosing your diamond, it is important to judge the cut, rather than the style. To deep a cut will result in lowered brilliance, as will a shallow cut. The ideal cut is one that allows the maximum amount of light to reflect from the planes of a diamond’s facets, resulting in the fire that we have come to associate with these stones. A knowledgeable jeweler will be able to show you the difference in these cuts, compared to one that is ideal.
Once you have found the right cut, you will need to choose a shape. While the Princess cut shape is incredibly popular, there are many more from which you can choose. The Marquise is a magnificent shape, as are the Pear shape and even the Oval shaped. Emerald shaped diamonds can make a unique statement on any ring or pendant. These are larger stones, cut in the fashion common with emeralds. Remember, though, before you purchase any stone, that you will have to consider the remainder of the 4 C’s; color, clarity and carat. Purchasing a substandard stone can be embarrassing as well as quite a letdown.
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