Diamond Lessons

While GIA is the leading and most respected of the grading laboratories, there are other highly respectable gemological laboratories that grade diamonds for color as well. The primary one and most respected of these is AGS, American Gemological Society. EGL, European Gemological Society, and IGI, International Gemological Institute, also have color grading scales, which are similar in nomenclature to GIA's. However, neither EGL nor IGI are as strict or stringent in their color grading as GIA or AGS, thus resulting in inflated grades over what you would get from either GIA or AGS.

AGS uses a color grading scale that is comparable to the GIA color scale, but it is not as comprehensive, and lists its grades using numbers as opposed to GIA's letters. The AGS color grade scale runs from 0 to 10, with 0 corresponding to the GIA's "D" and 10 corresponding to the GIA's "V-Z". The AGS grading scale, in comparison to GIA's runs as follows:

AGS	GIA
0	D
1	E
2	F
3	G
4	H
5	I, J
6	K, L
7	M, N
8	O, P, Q
9	R-U
10	V-Z

Each gem laboratory has its own grading system for diamonds, and uses its own nomenclature to rate and describe the attributes and characteristics of a particular stone.

GIA: GIA diamond cut grading system runs from excellent to poor. The GIA five grade system runs: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. GIA breaks their cut grading system down into three categories of assessment:

1. Face up Appearance: This includes Brilliance, Fire and Scintillation, the three appearance-based features of the diamond.
2. Design: This includes the weight ratio of the diamond and the diamond's durability.
3. Craftsmanship: This examines and rates the polish and symmetry of the diamond.

AGS: AGS began grading cut in 1996 and based their criteria on Tolkowsky's proportions. Their grading system runs from 0 (ideal cut) to 10 for poor. The 3 factors that they rate are:

1. Light Performance (which includes looking at the brightness, fire, and light leakage).
2. Proportion (which looks at the girdle thickness, the size of the culet, the weight, durability and tilt).
3. Finish (which involves examining the symmetry and polish of the diamond).

AGA: AGA was the first laboratory to establish a cut grading system for round brilliant and princess cut diamonds. As with GIA, AGA cut grading system runs from Excellent to Poor.

The two most respected gemological laboratories in the world today are GIA, Gemological Institute of America, and AGS, American Gem Society. The grading guidelines that each of these two laboratories have set up meet and exceed CIBJOs, , Confédération International de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie des Diamantes, Perles et Pierres, or more simply, The World Jewelry Confederation, rules, and have set the bar for all other laboratories. Each has their own nomenclature for their respective grading systems.

GIA uses the following labeling in their grading system:

• 13FL: Flawless
• 14IF: Internally Flawless
• 15VVS1 and VVS2: Very, Very Small Inclusions (two separate grades)
• 16VS1 and VS2: Very Small Inclusions (two separate grades)
• 17SI1 and SI2: Small Inclusions
• 18I1 and I2: Inclusions Visible

AGS uses a numerical system that runs from 0 to 10 in its grading system. Side by side, the two systems line up as so:

• 0 = FL
• 1 = IF and VVS 1
• 2 = VVS 2
• 3 = VS 1
• 4 = VS 2
• 5 = SI 1
• 6 = SI 2
• 7 = I1
• 8 = I1 and I2
• 9 = I2 and I3
• 10 = I3

You can see that the two systems have slightly different range of the particular grades. What is important to remember with this is that the nomenclature for a particular grade may be different, but the grading criteria and requirements for each are quite rigorous and strict, more so than the laboratory grading systems found elsewhere.

There are other fine gemological laboratories that follow the lead of GIA and AGS, which are quite capable of producing good results. However, as mentioned previously, these labs are not as stringent in their grading requirements as GIA or AGS, and so can, occasionally, produce a diamond certificate with a grade that would be higher than the grade that the same diamond would receive from GIA or AGS.

For example, EGL, European Gemological Laboratory, and the IGI, International Gemological Institute, both share the same scale nomenclature as GIA, however, they do not grade as stringently as GIA. A diamond graded by GIA (or AGS) of SI1 or higher will typically be considered "eye clean" (inclusions cannot be seen with the unaided eye). However, the same "eye clean" range would typically begin at VS2 as graded by both EGL and IGI, as they inflate their grades.

A good example of this is the SI3 grade. The SI3 was first put into use by EGL. The grade came about as a response to the growing jewelry industry concern that the gradation between the SI2 and the I1 grade was too great a leap. As a result, the SI3 grade was created to allow for a middle grade between the SI2 and the I1. The SI3 grade has been accepted by the Rapaport Diamond Report (also known as the Rap sheet: used as one of the industry's primary diamond pricing guides) as an acceptable and distinct grade of diamond for the sake of pricing. However, GIA does not recognize the SI3 grade and so does not use the SI3 on its grading system. When seeing the SI3 grade, be aware that this grade converts to an I1 on GIA scale.

As you have looked into diamonds and diamond grading you probably have discovered that there is more than one gemological laboratory that will assign a diamond-grading certificate. It is important to be aware of the fact that not all laboratories are as well respected or as stringent in their grading as every other laboratory.

Since 1975, any laboratory that wants to be recognized as a genuine gemological laboratory must follow the certification rules as laid out by CIBJO. CIBJO was formed in 1961 by multiple national jewelry trade organizations, in an effort to form an international jewelry confederation that could lie out uniform rules for the grading of diamonds. CIBJO currently has 21 countries involved in its associations. Their rules are the basic rules of grading today, such as: using a 10x loupe for grading; that each diamond to be certified must be graded by at least three (3) professional graders; that all laboratories must be independent and impartial and cannot be involved in the buying or selling of diamonds.

The Gemological Institute of America, GIA, one of the most respected of the diamond grading laboratories, lists the carat weight to the hundredth of a carat, as do many of the other common grading labs. This follows the regulations set by the FTC, Federal Trade Commission, in the area of precious gems. At the next most respected diamond-grading laboratory, AGS, the American Gemological Society, the carat weight is listed to the thousandth of a carat. They follow the rules for precious gem weights as laid out by the International Committee on Weights and Measures.

All laboratories that are respected, objective and independent will weigh only unset stones. A stone's weight can be calculated from its dimensions once it has been set, but this is a method that will not be used by a reputable laboratory as it is not accurate. A diamond can also be removed from its setting in order to be weighed, but this will add the potential of damage to the diamond during the removal and remounting procedure. It is best to make certain that a stone has a certificate prior to its being set, as the certificate will allow you to see at any time what the precise carat weight is, along with all of its other measurable dimensions.

Diamond certification is also known as a diamond grade report. This is a fairly straightforward process by which a diamond is measured and tested. The results of this scientific study of a particular diamond are recorded in a report that accompanies the diamond. This report, or certification, serves as an identifier or fingerprint for the particular diamond, as no two diamonds are alike.

The certification process is carried out by a gemological laboratory. Gemological laboratories should be independent of any diamond retailers or wholesalers, to avoid any conflict of interests or bias. The gemological laboratory will take the diamond, loose only, and measure its various attributes and dimensions. Amongst the loose diamond's particulars that are measured are the 4 Cs of Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat. The diamond's flaws (or inclusions) are noted and, depending on the laboratory grading the diamond, can be plotted on a diagram of the diamond. The laboratory then produces the paperwork and sends it on, accompanying the diamond for which it was prepared. It must be noted that not all gemological laboratories are equal in either their costs or their grading results.

There are many different gemological laboratories available to the diamond-buying public. Some of the more well known, respected and trusted are the following: GIA (Gemological Institute of America), AGS (American Gemological Society), HRD (Hoge Raad Voor Diamant; Diamond High Council), PGS (Professional Gem Sciences), EGL (European Gemological Institute) and the IGI (International Gemological Institute). Each of these has there own criteria and method of grading loose diamonds, but they all operate within a high set of parameters, in regards to grading a diamond's attributes and dimensions. Be aware that as each has its own methods, each also has its own expense guides for preparing a certificate.

The laboratory that is held in the highest regard by the diamond industry is the Gemological Institute of America. GIA's standards for grading have set the bar for all other gemological laboratories, making it the most trusted and respected name in gemological laboratories. It is because of this that a GIA certificate tends to be more expensive than certificates from other laboratories. However, the additional cost of receiving a grade report from GIA is offset by the benefits that can be found in the veracity and reliability of GIA grade report. With such a grade report, you are assured of knowing exactly and precisely what the graded diamond is, in regards to the 4Cs and the mapping of the particular diamond's flaws, which can allow you to have a strong tool in correctly assessing its value.

Among the other aforementioned gemological laboratories, AGS is on par with GIA for grading standards. In fact, it is the AGS grading for cut that served as an impetus for the GIA recently adding Cut grading to their grading reports. HRD out of Antwerp, Belgium is also a greatly respected name in the diamond industry, as is the still relatively small, PGS. A certificate from any of these laboratories can be considered accurate and reliable.

Another pair of gemological laboratories is EGL and IGI. Each of these laboratories is fine in their own right, but neither have the name and reputation of GIA or any of the other previously mentioned gemological laboratories. Much of this is due to the fact that both EGL and IGI tend to over-grade the loose diamonds that are sent to them, as well as having less strict grading scales and training requirements for their gemologists. For example, EGL created the grade of SI3 for Clarity. This is the equivalent of the I1 by GIA standards (which does not accept the SI3 grade in its grading scale). In addition to this, a diamond that received a grade in clarity of VS2 from either EGL or IGI would most likely receive a grade of SI1 from the GIA.

As a result of the inflated grading scale offered by EGL and IGI (normally one grade over on clarity and one to two grades over on color) diamonds graded by either of these laboratories will have a lower value than a diamond with the same grade from GIA. For jewelry stores that have a set stock of diamonds, or for large department stores, an inflated grade from EGL or IGI can help them to shift their stock quicker, and for less money, as EGL and IGI grade reports are less expensive than the GIA reports. This is an important fact to be aware of when looking into certifications, as not all certifications are created equal.

It is important to remain aware of the facts around certification and its process. While it is possible to find diamonds with the same grade notably cheaper one place, such as a mall jewelry store, than at another, there are no huge bargains within the diamond industry. The discovery of an enormous cost reduction in one store over another, for the same grade of diamond, simply indicates that one diamond retailer is selling diamonds with inflated grades from a less reputable gemological laboratory. More than likely, the reduced-cost diamond has been given an over-inflated grade in order to move it out of the store quickly. Always make certain to identify the source of the grade report. If you have not heard of the laboratory, it could very well be associated in some way with the store itself, and so have a vested interest in aiding the store's sales.

The diamond certificate can be your best friend in your quest for the right diamond. The certificate is simply a report that has been prepared by professional, experienced gemologists who have given their expert opinion, using a battery of technical tools, as well as their own experience, on the various qualities of a given diamond. They do not assess monetary value, but monetary value for the seller is often founded, in great part, based on the certificate. Be aware that diamond certificates are only of value when issued by a respected independent gemological laboratory.

How to Read Color on a Certificate

Using the color grading scale, alphabet D-Z, you will find it quite easy to read the grade of color on your diamond certificate (referred to by GIA as a "Grading Report"). Looking at the report, you simply follow the left column of the report down to the COLOR GRADE listing. A letter will appear next to this notation, such as 'E'. This is your diamond's color grade, and as a diamond's color does not change over time, it is good for the life of the diamond. By simply reading this grade you will be able to have a strong indication of the value of your diamond. While the value of a diamond will not rest on the color grade alone, it is an important determining factor. The color grade, along with the other information provided on your grading report, will provide you with enough information to assess the value of the diamond.

How to Read Clarity on a Certificate

The clarity grade on a certificate is based on the quantity, color, size, location and type of flaws within and on the surface of the diamond that are visible under 10x magnification. Any flaws that can be found under greater magnification are not taken into account, as they would be far too miniscule to have an impact on the diamond's clarity.

The following are the grades that are assigned by GIA for their clarity scale:

• 7FL: Flawless
• 8IF: Internally Flawless
• 9VVS1 and VVS2: Very, Very Small Inclusions (two separate grades)
• 10VS1 and VS2: Very Small Inclusions (two separate grades)
• 11SI1 and SI2: Small Inclusions
• 12I1, I2 and I3: Inclusions Visible

To identify the clarity of the diamond follow the left column down till you see "Clarity Grade" and one of the above notations next to it, such as SI1.

In addition to this grading, there will be a diagram of the diamond, as seen from the top down and from the bottom down. This diagram is used to mark the flaws found within and on the diamond, and the placement of said flaws. Different colors are used to plot which flaws are which, such as using (in the case of GIA) red lines to indicate a feather, round red circles to indicate clouds, red spots to indicate pinpoints, black markings to indicate naturals and so forth.

*With some grading reports, the flaws will not be plotted on the diagram, although they are indicated by the clarity grade. In these cases the flaws are noted under the "comments" section, located at the bottom of the left column. Under the "comments" section, the un-plotted flaws will be noted. Some flaws are not plotted because they are either to spread apart which makes them difficult to plot clearly on the diagram, or by diagramming the flaws the diamond would appear to be more heavily included than it actually is.

How to Read Cut on a Certification Report

On more recent certificates, the cut is given an evaluative grading. This grading can be easily seen and understood on the certificate. It is usually in the form of a category covering the grade of the cut, under which the topics of light performance, proportion, and finish (which includes symmetry and polish) will appear. The cut grade can be found within the list of qualities in the left column of any certificate. The cut will receive an overall grade (which can be, as in the case with AGS, a rating from 0 for ideal to 10 for poor) and a grade in each of the other sub-topics. This is a useful tool to understand and utilize as it can tell you the diamond's type of cut, and its quality level, quickly and efficiently. In more recent certificates, additional details of the cut may be found on a diagram at the bottom of the certificate next to the clarity diagram.

How To Read Carat on a Certification

When looking at a diamond's certificate there will be a listing of the diamond's weight, at the top of the left column which contains all of the other qualities. This weight will be listed as an exact carat weight. The measuring devices that the laboratories use measure the diamond's weight to the thousandths of a carat. Depending on which laboratory the certificate is issued from, carat weight will be listed in either thousandths of a carat or hundredths of a carat.

Before making your final decision on a diamond or diamond jewelry, it is important to have the diamond or diamonds independently appraised for their monetary value. An independent appraisal by a respected and certified independent appraiser will allow you to know if the diamond you are thinking of acquiring is actually worth the expense that is being charged for it. In addition to this, an independent appraisal will give you needed information for insurance purposes.

Many people make the mistake of confusing appraisal with certification, or simply think that they are the same thing. While both should list the diamond's type and proportions, they do not offer this information to the same degree, or to the same ends. A certificate that comes from a respected independent laboratory will provide in-depth information on a diamond's most essential statistics, in a scientifically observational manner. An independent appraisal, on the other hand, will provide the general identification information on a diamond, such as its proportions and type, but for the sake of assessing and providing a monetary value for the diamond.

One of the greatest values of the appraisal is to provide verification of the information provided on the diamond's certificate. A good independent appraiser will be able to tell you if the diamond matches with the grades that have been attributed to it on the certification. This will provide you with the security that your diamond has been correctly graded, that you can expect it to have the values normally attributed to diamonds of its specific level of quality, and that it is the correct diamond.

The reason that you will want an independent appraisal, as opposed to an appraisal from a jewelry store, is to avoid conflicts of interest. An appraisal from a jewelry store, or an appraisal from an appraiser who is appointed or hired by a jewelry store, is going to be questionable at best. The jewelry store is in business to sell you diamonds; it is, therefore, in their best interest to have a forgiving and generous appraisal of their diamonds and jewelry. An independent appraiser who has no such connections has no vested interest in whether or not you acquire the diamond. For this reason, they will give you the most accurate appraisal that he or she is can produce.

Numerous questions can be answered by an independent appraiser. Not only can you find out that the diamond that you acquired matches the diamond you are actually having appraised, and that the diamond matches the certificate you hold for it, but you can discover two other important things. First, has the diamond been treated in any way? A good independent appraiser will be able to quickly ascertain whether or not your diamond has had any treatments, such as color enhancement, laser fillings, or if it is even real. Second, has the diamond been cut to the correct proportions, in accordance with what you have paid for? Again, a good independent appraiser will be able to measure your diamond to determine its cut and other proportions.

When you are looking for a diamond, you will often find unbelievable discounts at some diamond and jewelry stores. For example, you may find a store offering a diamond that has been appraised at $2000 being offered for only $1000 or less. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Appraisers who are part of, or paid by, a jewelry store will often hugely inflate the appraised value of the diamonds and jewelry of the store that pays them. By having an inflated "appraised" listed cost, the jewelry retailer can offer the diamond and jewelry at "discount" costs that are equal to, or even above, genuine market value, while appearing to give you a tremendous deal.

When having your diamond appraised, make sure that the appraiser you choose is associated with at least one of the recognized appraisal societies, such as the ASA (American Society of Appraisers) or ISA (International Society of Appraisers). In addition, she or he should also have a solid, accredited education in appraisal, as well as being certified by one of the major gemological societies. It is important to be aware that anyone can call her or himself an appraiser, so be certain to check into her or his qualifications and experience prior to entrusting her or him with your diamond or jewelry.

Your appraisal should include such information as your name, the date of the appraisal and the name of the item that is being appraised, such as the jewelry item or diamond type. There are also three (3) other pieces of information that you should expect to see in writing when having a diamond appraised by an independent appraiser:

• The reason for the appraisal, such as if it is to ascertain the identity and value, if it is for insurance purposes, or for other reasons.
• All of the diamond's features should be listed. This will include such measurements as the cut, clarity, color and carat, as well as the depth percentages for the various parts of the diamond's anatomy.
• A solid estimation of the diamond's value. This will include an explanation of what the given monetary value actually means, such as if it is for replacement costs or current market value, and how the value was ascertained.

Ask for the availability of the following:

• Good photographs of the diamond. The photographs will serve as visual identification of the diamond.
• A plot of the diamond's inclusions so that it can be identified in the future, in the instance of a dossier report or a lost certificate.